Writer Paints

“If light is in your heart, you will find your way home.”

–Rumi

Isla Mujeres MX, 2022, Part IV, Final

Gracias por un tiempo maravilloso. Hasta que nos volvamos a encontrar, que estés bien, que estés a salvo y que tengas otra Margarita conmigo.

Swim buoy cut loose from the storm to roam free..

As I start to gather up my stuff, packing to see that all my extra belongings actually do fit to go home, I can’t help but continue living in the last five fabulous weeks. I so needed this time, the space to gather myself to myself, to fully appreciate all that I have and all that I love, cut all the worries loose and embrace the excitement of returning home to the Napa Valley. And yet, there’s always time for a few panic moments, “where’s my passport? I know it’s here somewhere…”

I’ve been using up my sourdough and have just enough for pancakes today and tomorrow morning, finishing up the fresh fruit in the fridge. And just enough pesos as well to get me through.

The thing about being on an island is that you really have the sense of being with yourself, and everyone around you, the end of the streets, the beginning of the ocean to everywhere. For a pisces girl like me, the sea is always calling.

When I go out early in the day, walking into the cool/warm water, a simple and yet overwhelming love grabs my soul. The salty water lifting me up as I float, the quiet sound of waves flapping on the shore, the birdsongs. I could float forever and be happy wherever I land.

The birds swooping over me in the early morning air, I have not a worry in the world. When I leave the water, my blanket, hat and towel are waiting just where I left them, a calling card to sit and relax before a short walk to a cup of hot tea, breakfast, coffee, and whatever more is on my plate for the day.

Reading, that’s been a fine job for me. The books I finished, one I brought from home, and the others I picked up here at Libros por Raúl, I gave to Raul. Sell them again! I told him. And I’ve still got one on hand to read on the plane tomorow.

Feeling grateful, joyful, sometimes a little lonely (it passes), happiness and gratitude is my touchstone. The grief of the loss of a good friend this past week and the enseless murders elsewhere stay with me. I do my best to remember the best.

My five senses try not to miss any of the beauty, and the challenges here on the island are ever present. I’m one of those people who like absolute quiet for sleep, so here I wear earplugs to drown out the night sounds in the street. I’m looking forward to putting them back in their little pouch Tuesday, until the next trip. I’ve opened my last few packets of herbs and supplements and even started sketching. ‘took me a while…

These are the days I’m grateful I never got covid and lost my sense of taste and smell, because both are on overload here every single day.

I talked a little about my trip to the south end of the island with Carmen. To fill in the blanks, I first met Carmen when I came here couchsurfing, my first trip to the Yucatan 2010, I think. So long ago. I hit Cancun, Tulum, Isla Holbox, Chichen Itza and the sweet Yucatan Mayan Retreat, Ecohotel & Camping in Yokdzonot. So many years ago. A couple years later, I was back with my friend Kelley. We’ve discovered the magic now of the Yucatan and we won’t let go.

2019, the three amigas. I must say, we still look pretty magnificent.

So this time around, Carmen was able to get away from her work at CondoSurfers in Cancun, and we went out for a glorious day. She hadn’t been here to Isla in a while. We greeted each other with a big hug at the ferry and proceeded to laugh through the day after a simple breakfast at Cafe Cito, a brief visit to my airBnB and then off to get a golf cart. Carmen was the driver of the day and we savored all the nooks and crannies of this island.

I think she was quite surprised at all the changes from one end of the island to the other. For me as well, so much is new. We landed at Punta Sur, exploring the sculture garden, absolutely a beautiful day of it.

We watched the storm on the horizon. The wind blew in first and pretty soon the heavens opened up, showering down an amazing rush of rain, drowning us as we stood laughing on the good solid earth. Phone/cameras were stashed from the water’s onslaught and we savored the feel of the cool rain on our hot skin. Then we got back into that golf cart with its little roof to move on to more fun. But not before ice cream.

Carmen is a mural magnet. She’s got pages of them on her social media profiles. And Isla is nothing but its own magnet for beautiful murals; they are everywhere on the island. We found a string of them near the Women’s Beading Collective and spent a few minutes with the murals and with the women weaving their stunning beads. The rain had stopped and we had all the time in the world.

I mentioned in an earlier post about local artist David RLP, who was scheduled to have an art exhibit opening that night. Carmen, like me, was eager for the event.

We had dinner at Coco’s and found our way to David’s opening at Casa Sirena’s Hotel rooftop patio where David’s completed mural now graces the side of the wall and my new t-shirt. If you f’book, you can find him and more of his art here: https://www.facebook.com/search/top?q=davidrlp

The day too soon came to a close and it was time to say goodbye to each other again. Until the next time. I can’t believe we didn’t get a selfie of the two of us together. Hahaha, crazy.

I came across a little history of Isla the other day. You might like to read it.

https://islamujeresmagazine.blogspot.com/p/tourism-comes-to-isla-mujeres.html?m=1

Carmen and I were talking about something or other when she mentioned the continental Isla Mujeres. I knew she was talking about the mainland stretch north of Cancun, but I didn’t understand much else. ‘Turns out it’s the stream of land with giant hotels & resorts, loaded with tall concrete behemoths I can see from here.

Costa Mujeres, it seems it’s called, north of Cancun, seems to be full of things to do with several huge resorts open for your pleasure. The information I found online didn’t beckon to me. I think I’m more of an Isla island girl. The municipal seat of both the mainland and island sections, is here on the island, about 13 kilometres (8.1 mi) northeast of Cancun, over the Bahia de Mujeres (Bay of Women). It’s also the easternmost municipal seat in Mexico, Isla Mujeres island, where the sun first shines on Mexico.

Here starts the rainy season I suppose. The wind came in with a roar around 3 o’clock the other morning, followed by rain. It didn’t last long into the day. The change in weather to cool and breezy, I have to say, is quite nice. The morning sidewalks are fresh and clean. Except this corner, but only for a short time. Nothing unusual according to the locals. It certainly didn’t slow me down or anyone else, after the rising sun.

It did make me hope that the rain would not be falling like that during my ten minute walk to the ferry on my departure day.

I’ve certainly had a good period of reflection, which we all need sometime or other, in a wonderland of beauty and human kindness. Where I think I’m ordering a double shot expresso Americano and get two singles instead. No problemo – it’s caffeine. Where the food and drink is excellent everywhere I go. Where the churches are simple and brilliant. Where you turn around and there’s another beautiful or unique something to take a picture of. Where you walk by scads of tables and chairs skewed on the sand and know that it wasn’t an earthquake – it’s the early morning set-up. Where everone you meet has a smile waiting. And where one day, I stop to check out the little lady’s shop a few steps from my place.

One morning, I walk near a worker digging holes for an umbrella, as he does day after day after day. He and I make a little eye contact, exchange smiles, holas and “buenos dias’s” and I pass on one of my homemade infused lavender oil lip balms to him, just because it’s a nice moment, and why not?

I never do know what I’ll find on the beach here; that’s why I go every day, to find out. Poor fishy, missing parts and all, still a bit pretty to look at. And for the first time that I’ve seen, a soccer pitch set up at the beach.

It was this past Saturday that Liverpool played Real Madrid in the Champions League final. I found an empty chair at a table with four or five fine hombres set in front of a room full of tellys high on the walls of the raucous crowded Snappers Sports Bar. I can now say I’ve hit two different sports bars. Basketball at Jax and Futbol. The amigos shared their nachos, I shared my onion rings and we all shared our laughter and raised a cerveza in salute to Real Madrid on their win. https://www.snappersislamujeres.com I was too busy cheering, drinking and eating to take any pictures. Sorry.

Hurricane season begins on Wednesday. I leave for home on Tuesday, and today, Monday, we’re seeing quite a bit of rain. Do hurricanes really have a datebook on them?

Keeping my fingers crossed that it’s not roaring tomorrow morning when I go get my covid test and walk my luggage to the ferry. Assuming I get a negative test. I begged off a couple of large trash bags from the AirBnB folks, just in case I need a quick cover-up. LOL.

Early morning, pre-rain…

The rain comes later…

A positive covid test would keep me here several days longer. Oh, what to do. Health-wise, I really don’t want to get saddled with that virus. And honestly, I know personally more people now dealing with covid than ever before. Not here.

So, that’s it, for now, a little Santana to close us out. I’ve really got to get to that packing. First, a little sidestep, at least 40 paces, to Los Tacos de Humo for my last awesome tacos of the trip.

Paradise Right This Moment

Isla Mujeres MX, 2022, Part III

One of my favorite things to do here are going on early morning walks, jogging along the beach or along the malacon before the busy-ness of the day begins. It’s a nice long stretch of walkway along the east ocean, always with a good breeze, the walkway lined with new construction, old ruins, hotels, hostels, condos, homesteads, little cafes and such,.

I meander past statues of famous Mexican leaders, colorful murals and incredible sculptures scattered along the walk. A Hyperbaric Chamber – in a place like this, gotta have one of those. The sidewalks and streets throughout Isla are mostly a combination of brick, stone and concrete. The electrical grid reminds me of my visitys to Thailand, even to the plug sneaking out of the ground on one of the public squares which often hosts music and other events.

As you’ve settled into the day to day in Isla, you recognize various sounds coming up behind you – scooters, autos, carts and occasionally a big truck, in the road where we pedestrians often share the little narrow streets.

When I’m home in Napa, I’m a busy sourdough bread baker and so I wanted to bring some of my sourdough starter from home. I knew I wouldn’t be baking, but pancakes always work on a little hotplate. Before coming to Isla, I dried a thin spread of SuzieStarter on parchment paper, broke it into little pieces and stashed it all into a little ziplock baggie. No, neither TSA or customs batted an eye. After a week or so of loving care, that sourdough was up and running, providing me with a sourdough pancake every few days, covered with fruit and jam. Yummm. I really don’t want to eat out every meal all the time. Though I will pretty much spring for coffee and a cerveza every day of the week.

The Aki Market in the square by the church, is where I go for kitchen supplies like green tea, fresh fruit & veggies, chicken soup, cheese, oatmeal and oreos, of course. Coffee I always get somewhere, sometimes to go. I have a few favorite spots like Cafe Isla and Cafe Cito.

One night at Tiny Gecko I met a lady from Dallas who answered a question I had about this naval ship hanging out away from the northeast edge of the island the past few days. ‘Turns out it was there as the finish line of a regatta that had sailed from the mainland several days previously. Regattas have been going on for a long time here. Her husband didn’t place, she admitted, because his crew decided it was vacation and quit the heavy work necessary to win. Hubby wasn’t happy.

One morning last week, two outgoing nice and pleasant guys outside one of those numerous jewelry stores on Av Rueda Medina finally convinced me to come in and look at their store, after days of my telling them no gracias. I wasn’t really interested in jewelry.

It was all a ruse to tag team me into tasting their tequila and getting me to buy a few bottles of their $300 USD stuff. LOL. Thanks, but thanks. But who can turn down shots of Peanut Butter or Cofffe/Vanilla Tequila on an empty stomach?

Out for a swim one day, smelling the patch of sargassum (seaweed) below me and still enjoying the water after sitting in the hot sun reading. The sea and the swimming has been fabulous. And always a joy to people watch here in all kinds of beachwear.

At Abuelo’s one evening, I was upstairs in the breeze, server Janey and I were talking a bit about the nice expanse of jungle adjoining the transformer station, across the road. Janey told me there used to be a lot more trees. I asked if the trees had gone down in a storm, and she told me they’d been cut down to build things on the island. She says the jungle that’s growing over there now grows really, really fast – with weedy looking foliage. I sit and watch the guy in the palm tree across the road shucking coconuts to the ground and wonder at his mastery.

New cafe opened up just about the time I came to town, Sueño do Marfil, not even on the google map when I last checked. Great staff, all around, and tasty food to say the least. The second story balcony is the place to be for a breeze and a cold cerveza on a full moon night. Or anytime at all. Next door to the famous Tiny Gecko!

When on the beach any time of day, roaming sales-people with bracelets, beads, dresses and more make their way amongst the beach chairs and sunbathers day and evening alike. I picked up a few bracelets from a sweet yourng woman. One day I watched a young man traipsing through the sand, in and out of beach chairs and umbrellas sprinkled with tourists, his little 7 year old son dragging behind. Little or no safety net in Mexico, people work wherever, whenever, they can or they don’t feed their families.

A big tall looking anglo fellow with a T-shirt logo STOP PUTIN in yellow and blue graphic comes to the table where I’m sitting at Coco’s beach club. He places four little key-chain like things, elephants, turtles and such on the table. He hands me a card which says he’s deaf and he’s asking for me to buy him these good luck charm for his health. 70 pesos ($3 use).

I thought the card was a poor translation and that that he didn’t really mean to say buy them “for him”, that they were actually for me to buy from him. I was wrong. Because he then picked up the 70 pesos ($3 usd) I put on the table, as well as the four good luck charms and went on to another table to ask the same. I chuckled and figured WTH, good for him. That was the same night I considered having rice and plantains for dinner – and opted for cheesecake.

I spent some sweet time exploring more of the island, away from my neighborhood. Isla Mujeres is the smallest island in the Caribbean, gets the most tourists I’ve been told, and even TripAdviser recommends the place. It’s only 5 miles long by about a third of a mile wide, easy to explore via bus, bicycle, taxi cabs (very reasonable set price) and golf cart.

I had two days of golf cart exploring after a couple of bus trips, getting on and off to check out places like the Mango Cafe, the Chedraui Market and Punta Sur (more on that later). One of those days I wandered into Garrafon de Castilla, had a fine day in the shade of an umbrella with a lounge chair, cold beer and easy to walk in fishies to visit.

There are dozens of golf cart companies on the island. I had a recommendation from the folks at Sky Hawk Divers, who also own the AirBnB I’m renting for this stay. I walked over to Ciro’s for my big adventure and was waylaid by the long line, so instead I detoured myself into having breakfast and a coffee at Chaya & Cacao. Good thing I did. When I went to take a picture, I realized my phone was back home. Short walk while my delicious breakfast was readied and then I was set.

Plantains, potatoes, guac, rice and beans, salad. COFFEE.

No one in line for carts after breakfast. It had been more three weeks since I’d been behind the wheel of a car. At least that many years since since driving a golf cart in Isla. And they still gave me one.

I figured out the two keys. It took me a minute; coffee hadn’t set in quite yet. One to start the cart, one for the bike lock cable to hold my bags onto the seat so they don’t pop out on all the little bumps in the road AND also to lock the steering wheel when I walk away. Sure don’t want someone else to drive off with my cute little green cart.

First off, a successful few feet ahead and then a back-up into a parking place at the Correos de México Avenida Vicente Guerrero Isla Mujeres – Post Office to send off a few postcards. Very few postcards for sale these days; internet’s influence I suppose. I guess I’m just old fashioned. Then around the blocks a few times to park and bop into the stationary store for some colored pencils and a sketch book for my planned artwork. Then off to the south.

I meandered up and down and crossways around the island. I spotted the lagoon and marina, a part of the island I’d not explored before, and spent some time in Punta Sur. The next day did the same with Carmen, my friend who came over for the day from Cancun. She did the driving that day, and she had no fear!! More of Carmen and my adventures next time.

Also went to the Women’s Beading Cooperative where I made a little investment of my own for some of their gorgeous beadwork. Their work is exquisite and my photos do it no justice. Please go there when you have the opportunity. You can read more here:

https://globalwomenartisans.com/social-venture/isla-mujeres-womens-beading-co-op

Besides all the touristy places, parts of the island are of course, where the locals live, the folks who cater to all the visitors 365 days a year, and the expats who make Isla their home now. (I wish). Small bungalows, clothes-lines full of laundry out for the day, I slowly cruise past dozens of laughing children at lunch-time out on the street corner, grabbing food at the cart, by the senior housing place, several really nice looking houses and casas, a mental health clinic, the Veterinary Clinic and a new University that doesn’t look open quite yet. Very nice. Sweet planter boxes. And Vic’s car.

After getting back to the north part of the island, Carmen and I returned the cart and went to dinner at Coco’s which has become one of my go-to places on the beach. I’ve been a few times and sometimes the servers greet me by name. This time I tried the octopus tacos and they were excellent, octopus oh-so-tender and tasty, and the ice cold cerveza was much welcomed.

We’re not finished yet…

Walking in Sunscreen

Isla Mujeres MX, 2022, Part II

‘Hard to believe I’ve been here two weeks already. I think it took me ten days to fully relax into life away from home. I’m getting into my own groove, it feels good, some days on the beach all day, others a good walk in the morning and/or the evening, spending a while in a cafe or other, or home reading. Pushing myself out of my comfort zone and going many new places I hadn’t checked out in prior visits to Isla.

I joined several Isla Mujeres f’book groups just to see if anything interesting pops up for me. So far, yes, a couple of things. I went to a ‘meet-up’ of folks at the Tiny Gecko bar and grill (great place to hang out – lots of live music and drinks almost too pretty to drink) where I met a bunch of fun folks, including David, a local artist. Several of his canvases will be packed home with me. The local corner shop has a handy duffel I’m going to pick up to accomodate the bits and bobs my pesos are getting for me.

I was out the other night for dinner on a roof top cafe that looked over a small patch of jungle. Surprised to see this burly looking guy shucking coconuts out of a tall palm. Oh, and I finally went to the Burger joint next door (another night). Oh my gosh. yummm.

Back when I arrived in Cancun, after a nice non-stop flight from SFO, I had prebooked my shuttle and ferry ride to the island, which is the only way to go unless one of your friends, like Carmen, is picking you up. Carmen, my couchsurfing friend, who is partly responsible for me falling in love with this part of the world. And Jorge, over near Chichen Itza, in Valladolid, at the Mayan EcoLodge, as well.

Live Entertainment on the Ultramar Ferry

Many interesting changes here since I was last here in Isla Mujeres with Kelley (2019), including an abundance of pharmacias and walk-in covid testing sites. Carmen, who lives and manages condos in Cancun, reports the covid testing sites have been a boon to the local economy since so many travelers still need a negative test to return home. Including me soon enough.

I’ve long known you could get drugs over the counter here (my dad used to travel to get his RX meds as a snowbird), cheaper than at home, but I really don’t take any meds. So when I went in for bandaids (elastics), or a bottle of Pepto Bismol or Pedialyte, I was surprised to get the hard sell, “Ativan, anything you want, we have it here. We deliver free.” A few days later, I couldn’t help but overhear a group of young gringos pooling their pesos to get just that thing, complaining of trouble sleeping in the humid heat. Wusses.

I picked up a small coffee cup this morning from the corner market, took it with me to Cafe Isla, had it filled with Cafe Americano and took a nice long walk along the malicon, a concrete walkway along the east side of the island, the breezy, rocky side.

Cafe Isla is a favorite of mine for ‘to-go’ coffee, a shop owned by a young island woman with a dream to bake and sell goods and coffees. Literally a hole in the wall – that I now take myself to on a stroll for coffee or a green smoothie often enough.

I was happy to see the church open when I walked by and took a little sit there. It reminded me a bit of a church I was in with my friend Adrienne, when I visited her in Marseilles, another fishing town. And it seems like I always discover a new mural somewhere.

Coming to a place like Isla is a wakeup call for not having exactly the same thing we have at home. And going to the market, well, the labels are not in English, so I’m really looking at the product or the pictures. With the little kitchen I have, I can still cook up a bowl of oatmeal or chicken noodle soup, etc. My stomach won’t take too much fatty, greasy food, so I am careful. I also brought some of my sourdough starter from home, restarted it and am eating sourdough pancakes a few days a week, piled with local fruits. Green tea in the morning keeps me happy.

It’s all so easy to get lost here, all these narrow streets and avenues, most of which you can’t find a street name to save your soul. And kids and dogs, the same as everywhere.

Street names are sometimes printed on the top of some building on a random street corner. WIFI is a bit sketchy – apple and google maps come and go. I’m lucky to be the kind of wanderer who appreciates getting lost as a new adventure. After two weeks now, I’m actually pretty darn good at remembering my way around town. Mapchicks is a great app to have; lots of good recommendations of restaurants, sights to see, beach clubs.

‘Beach Clubs’ are the thing here. Walk along any beach, find a table/chair, or a beach chair or lounge with umbrella, sit down and soon enough, one of the friendly workers will come along and fill you in on the food/drink menu, the cost of chair/umbrella, etc. You pay and sit the day away. Sneak into the surf a few times and feel like a queen.

One evening I thoroughly enjoyed a swinging hammock at the bar, at sunrise with an ice cold Dos XX and fine live music.

I’ve also had some killer gelato, a speedy gelato, eagerly slurping it up before it melted onto the street. Enjoying all my time out of doors with sunscreen, and I’m still getting some color on my Irish skin. I’ve decided to start swimming laps each morning, I’m up early, why not? I won’t put on sunscreen to do that. The salt water is an easy swim and an easier float.

I switch up my morning, or evening walks, one side of the island or the other and often just walk in the surf from one end of the beach zone to the other. A few folks are out walking and then there are the workers setting up the chairs, lounges, umbrellas, the guys using stake hole diggers to stuff the umbreallas into, and others raking the sand. Yes, raking the bits of flotsam away, carrying it off in a wheelbarrow so the touristas won’t be bothered. And on another day while on a walk along the main west shore road, I was able to check out a squad of diver recruits getting lessons from the boss across the road from the Naval Station.

Just about anywhere, I’ll find cervezas (or rather, they find me), pina coladas, margaritas to soothe my thirst and most of the time I remember to take a bottle of water with me on these excursions.

I finished off a crack-up of a book, Christopher Moore’s “Island of the Sequined Love Nun,” and went successfully hunting down the local bookstore where the owner, Raul, found me another Christopher Moore (A Dirty Job) that I also thoroughly enjoyed. His writing reminds me a bit of Richard Kadrey’s musings. Now I’m on Hemingway’s ‘The Sun Also Rises’, one of his books I hadn’t read yet. Yes, loving it. Enjoy reading through his eyes about places I’ve also been fortunate enough to see.

Above, a meal at Olivia’s one night, the tastiest Spanakopita I’ve ever had. An authentic Greek bake – layers of phylo pastry and a mixture of spinach and feta cheese served with fresh tomato sauce, hard boiled egg & house marinated olives and a big glass of ice cold mint lemonade. Mmmm. Pesos 280; $12.50. And my own humble sourdough pancake breakfast piled with local fruits one morning.

I almost stepped on the friendly neighborhood Gecko that Kelley and I always greet – still hanging out on the same street we found them before. Next to the garbage on the other side of the fence. I think his name is Bert, or Jorge, I can’t remember. Or maybe Eloise? .

Interesting to see the many private businesses who set their dollar/peso exchange rates as they wish. Banks and public agencies have to stick to the going rate, whatever it is. In some places, the dollar to Peso exchange is 26 pesos to 1, another place it’s 18 to 1, or 20 to 1. Alll new to me.

I use pesos. No need to make the locals have to exchange dollars for pesos, even though most places do take American dollars. Most of the little places don’t take cards. It’s a cost the vendors don’t want, or need, to make a living. As one vendor put it, “when everyone in Mexico has free wifi, we’ll start using cards. Right now, often the cards don’t go through.” Better for me to pay the bank fee to take out a boatload of pesos from the ATM than the locals paying for part of my vacation. Prices above, at Cafe Isla, are in pesos. That $45 Americano (really good and hot) is in pesos. Dollars, #2.00. Can’t go wrong anywhere here.

Best French Toast ever – Chaya & Cacao cafe up the street from me.

A realization swept in on me yesterday just after taking photos with a couple of guys here from Chicago. I’ve met a bunch of people from Chicago. I’m accustomed to traveling solo, always eager to meet new couchsurfers or friends along the way. I think this may be the first time I’m really solo, with no one to catch up with. I miss the comaraderie of good people I know. I’m also chit-chatting with folks here, locals and tourists like me. Good people. Like you. Like me. In Isla, it’s all very safe, the people always friendly and I really do feel like I’m home.